The Burden of Fast Fashion Waste Dumped in African Countries
The global south is overwhelmed with second-hand clothes from the global north. Yet one out of three used clothes donated to Africa is damaged and/or unsellable. Such clothes are burned or dumped in waste grounds, devastating the surrounding environment and communities, the impact of Fashion Waste Colonialism. For example, Dondora landfill in Kenya is East Africa’s largest dump site and the final destination of much of the world’s fashion waste, and recently the Chilean dessert clothes pile which can be seen from space.
The fast-growing fast fashion industry correlates with the increasing burden of fashion waste dumped in African countries. Why should Africa bear the brunt of textile waste from the ‘so called’ developed world? As if the effects of climate change disproportionately impacting the developing world was not already bad enough.
Fast fashion companies have increasingly relied on plastic fibres like polyester to make cheaper clothes at a high turnover rate. Currently, over 69% of textiles are made from synthetic fibres and it is expected to grow to at least 73% by 2030. Following the current data, the impact of fashion on marine life, biodiversity, and the environment as a whole will be near catastrophic.
In 2007, polyester became the world’s dominant textile fibre, since then production and use have tripled. Polyester is made from natural gas and crude oil. In the world today, polyester contributes heavily to environmental pollution because it is not biodegradable. Essentially, clothes made from polyester can take over a hundred years before they decompose. Meaning they take up space and build up plastic waste in our environment and communities while leeching harmful chemicals into the earth.
It is estimated that Europeans throw out about 5.8 million Tonnes of clothes per year in take-back schemes, donations, and recycling, however, they end up in used clothes markets in Africa. In the US, approximately 85% of clothes thrown away end up in landfills. Secondhand clothes traders in Africa report that most imported clothes arrive in such poor quality that they immediately become waste. Despite claims made by the fashion industry, only 12% of clothing materials are recycled and 99% of recycled polyester used comes from recycled plastics, not fabrics.
Regardless of the EU Textile Strategy, which addresses end-of-life management of plastic textiles and imposes restrictions on synthetic fashion waste, more volumes of used clothes are being shipped to African countries every year.
Companies utilising unsustainable fibres must be held accountable for the end-of-life of their clothes. In an investigation by Changing Markets Foundation concerning H&M, C&A, and Primark discarding clothes they promised to save – it was revealed these companies are making untrue green claims, in other words greenwashing. For example, 96% of H&M’s sustainability claims were found to be misleading.
According to Changing Markets campaign manager Urska Trunk, “The promises made by H&M, C&A, and Primark are yet another greenwashing trick on customers. Their investigation suggests that items in perfect condition are mostly destroyed, stuck in the system, or shipped across the world to countries that are least able to deal with the vast torrent of used clothing from Europe. The schemes add insult to injury by offering customers vouchers, discounts, or points to buy more clothing, amplifying the fast fashion model that is overflowing with waste.”
On combating the challenge of synthetic textile waste Ms Trunk added: “EU rules are a golden opportunity to improve take-back schemes across Europe. However, the European Parliament and member states need to strengthen this proposal via the European Commission”, from a need to comply to a must comply.
Her recommendation of setting binding recycling and reuse targets to bring an end to the misleading treatment of fashion waste uncovered by their investigation, and setting a high fine on clothing end-of-life would really drive the production towards better quality, longer-lasting garments. As fast fashion is addicted to cheap, plastic-based fibres, perhaps a high tax on the use of such fibres would slow down their high turnover rate and consumer accessibility.
Moving forward, if the fashion industry is to alleviate the damage it has caused and continues to do to the environment, it should begin with communities impacted by its waste, especially the developing world. Brands must completely overhaul their production systems with a circular supply-chain system to eliminate waste. Instead of relying on synthetic fibres, employ more sustainable materials in their production and most importantly, not dump their unwanted fashion items in Africa.
The lack of focus and expedience in combating the growing problem of fashion waste and pollution in Africa translates to violence against human rights as well as the environment. Make no mistake, if the current government does not push back, we the future leaders of tomorrow will.
Written by Eve Muyanja
Edited by Nnenna Hemeson
Photo Credit: AFP
